In every community there's a hidden gem nestled in a place you'd least expect it. Recently, on a visit to the small town of Delmar, Del., I found such a gem in a restaurant.

When you first enter, it doesn't take long to realize that this is no ordinary pizza parlor, and from the large number of loyal patrons, the locals have known this for years. The pizzas get rave reviews from everyone, but the impressive array of other options will make you wonder what to try first.

The Mediterranean family at the helm of this restaurant has been sharing their knowledge of Italian regional cooking in Delmar since 1991. Each menu item is related

to Italy. Whether it's a traditional Italian soup, a crisp antipasti, a hearty Italian entrée or one of the popular, decadent dolcis, every item allows your taste buds to experience the flavors of Italy. The magic begins in the open kitchen. They prepare your order quickly as you watch, but few realize the vital details that make the finished product taste so mouth-wateringly delicious.

The secret is in the fact that everything is made from scratch, with disciplined methods used for each process. The sauces are all prepared with tedious care. The marinara, for instance, simmers for hours to capture that robust, authentic Italian taste. Making the dough involves adjusting the

temperatures of each ingredient according to the temperature of the kitchen and other variables at a given time of day, so that it always comes out the same. The sautéed dishes are rich in tradition, based on old-fashioned recipes from various regions in Italy. Shortcuts are not an option at Delmar Pizza. For more distinct flavor, they even grate their own special blend of cheeses.

Whether you're in the mood for anything from soups, salads and sandwiches to stromboli and calzones, rich sautéed dishes, oven-baked specialties, desserts, or of course, pizza, stop by Delmar Pizza. It's a little slice of Italy in your own backyard...